Used Phone Buying Checklist: What to Check Before You Pay

By Samuel PfeifferLast reviewed October 7, 2026

Before you buy a used phone: get the IMEI and check it, match it on the phone in person, watch the seller remove their Apple Account or Google account and erase the phone, set it up yourself, test calls and the hardware, and pay with something you can dispute. The checklist below takes about fifteen minutes at the meetup and covers the problems that cost buyers the most: stolen, locked, blocked or broken.

Run a free stolen-phone check by IMEI — takes about 20 seconds.

Open the check phone tool

Before you meet

1. Get the IMEI

Ask the seller to dial *#06# and send a screenshot. Phones with two SIMs or an eSIM show two IMEIs; ask for both. If they won't send it, stop here.

2. Check it

Run the IMEI on the free IMEI check. It shows the make and model, so you can confirm it matches the listing, and searches SafeOrStolen theft reports and public web results. For an expensive phone, add the paid lost/stolen blacklist check.

3. Ask the questions that matter

  • Which carrier is it from, and is it paid off and unlocked?
  • Has the screen, battery or camera ever been replaced?
  • Do you have the box or the receipt?
  • Can you sign out of your account and reset it with me there?

The last question is the big one. An honest seller says yes. Someone who says it's "already reset" or that they'll "remove the account later" is telling you something.

4. Ask the seller to turn off Find My at home (iPhone)

Newer iPhones with Stolen Device Protection can make the owner wait an hour to turn off Find My when they're away from home. Asking them to do it before they leave saves a stalled meetup.

At the meetup

5. Meet somewhere public and bring your SIM

A busy, well-lit place with Wi-Fi or good signal. Bring your SIM card (or your eSIM details), a charging cable and earbuds.

6. Match the IMEI

Dial *#06# yourself and compare it with what you checked. Compare it with the box too if there is one. Any mismatch, walk away.

7. Watch the account come off and the phone get erased

PhoneWhat the seller doesWhat you should see after
iPhoneTurns off Find My, signs out of their Apple Account, then Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Erase All Content and SettingsSetup reaches your own Apple Account sign-in, not "iPhone Locked to Owner" or Remote Management
Samsung GalaxyRemoves Google and Samsung accounts in Settings > Accounts and backup > Manage accounts, then Factory data resetSetup doesn't ask for a previously synced Google account
Pixel and other AndroidRemoves their Google account in Settings, then Settings > System > Reset options > Erase all dataSetup doesn't ask for a previously synced account or show an organization screen

8. Check the carrier lock

On iPhone, Settings > General > About > Carrier Lock should say "No SIM restrictions", or name the carrier you use. On any phone, put your SIM in and make a call and send a text.

9. Test the hardware

  • Screen: open a white image and look for dead spots, lines or burn-in.
  • Touch: drag an app icon across every part of the screen.
  • Cameras: front and back, photo and video, and the flash.
  • Speakers and microphones: record a voice memo and play it back, then make a call.
  • Face ID, Touch ID or fingerprint: set one up.
  • Charging: plug in your cable and check it starts charging.
  • Buttons, the vibration switch or Action button, and Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

10. Check battery and parts

On iPhone, look at Settings > Battery > Battery Health and Settings > General > About > Parts and Service History. On Android, battery and repair details vary by brand. Replaced parts aren't proof of theft, but they should match what the seller told you.

Paying and afterward

11. Pay with something you can dispute

A marketplace's own checkout, PayPal Goods & Services or a credit card give you a way to dispute the payment if the phone turns out to be stolen or blocked. Cash, gift cards, crypto and "friends and family" payments usually don't.

12. Keep a record

Save the listing, messages, the IMEI and the payment confirmation. Your SafeOrStolen check is saved to your account with the date. For $1.99 (free for monthly members) you can add a verification certificate: a dated record with its own link showing you checked before the sale.

If something goes wrong

Don't resell the phone or try to bypass a lock. Follow what to do if you bought a stolen phone. For iPhone-specific checks, see how to check if an iPhone is stolen.

Frequently asked questions

Check the IMEI for theft reports and blacklisting, match it on the phone with *#06#, watch the seller remove their Apple Account or Google account and erase the phone, set it up yourself, test a call with your SIM, and test the screen, cameras, speakers and charging. Pay with a method you can dispute.

Check the IMEI on SafeOrStolen (safeorstolen.com/imei-checker) for theft reports, and add the paid blacklist check for an expensive phone. Then make sure the seller can remove their account and erase the phone in front of you. A thief can't do that without the owner's password.

No. It means nothing matched in the sources searched. A phone can be stolen and not reported yet, still locked to an owner's account, financed, or carrier-locked. The account and carrier checks at the meetup cover what an IMEI lookup can't see.

Bring your SIM card or eSIM details so you can test a call, a charging cable to test the port, and earbuds if you want to test audio. Have the IMEI the seller sent you on your own phone so you can compare it with *#06# on theirs.

Don't buy it. A seller who owns the phone has no reason to refuse an IMEI check, a reset in front of you, or a quick test call. Refusing any of them is the most common sign that the phone is stolen, locked or broken.

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